The following is an extended version of the article that appears in our July 2021 issue.
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It may seem strange to suggest a cocktail made with egg white in the heat of summer, but the gin fizz is as refreshing as they come, and so are its prolific offspring.
Essentially a gin sour made with egg white and soda (or a Tom Collins with egg white), the vintage libation's origins can be traced back to 1876, when it first appeared in bartender Jerry Thomas’ “Bar-Tender’s Guide.” A drink of simple structure, it opens the door for plenty of possibilities.
Sloe Down
My first experience with sloe gin was not a happy one, and it wasn’t until 15 years later that I “rediscovered” the delicious tipple, which is infused with berries from a British hedge shrub, and its place in the world of cocktails.
In Ashland, Industrial Taphouse bar manager Jon Jarrell introduced a sloe gin fizz to the brunch menu after running a special during a ’70s-themed night at the restaurant. One of the simplest gin fizz offshoots, the sloe gin dispenses with the egg white to help boost the liqueur's berry tartness.
Much more complex is a legendary gin fizz adaptation that most modern craft bartenders know and dread — but also secretly love: the Ramos Gin Fizz, a New Orleans classic invented in 1888 by Henry Charles Ramos. The original recipe calls for 12 minutes of shaking to whip the egg white and heavy cream into a frothy meringue that rises inches above the glass.
Bartender Christian Taylor of the recently opened Native Plate uses Japanese Roku gin for his version of a Ramos, noting that its floral structure complements the cocktail’s orange-blossom bouquet.
At James River Distillery, head distiller Dwight Chew produces a number of gins that each lend to unique versions of the gin fizz. For a mellower option, Chew reaches for Commonwealth Gin out of Windsor for its toned-down juniper notes and hints of cantaloupe.
Any time you’re using egg whites in a drink, it’s a good idea to add a thin pinch of salt (for the same reason you would in the frying pan). And shake hard with as much ice as fits in the shaker to emulsify and whip it full of air.
Use the fizziest soda you can get. I recommend making your own with a SodaStream and supercharging until it’s almost too sharp to drink on its own. The more bubbly, the merrier.
Classic Gin Fizz
Dwight Chew, James River Distillery
Though JRD’s tasting room remains closed for the time being, Dwight offers gin and simple cocktails to go — along with outdoor conversations about his gins.
- Commonwealth: Less juniper, replaced with other botanicals plus lime peel, cantaloupe, and hops. Great for fruity drinks and for highlighting the tonic in a G&T.
- Continental: Classic London Dry style with stronger juniper character and a few more proof. Great for martinis and any other gin use.
2 ounces James River Commonwealth gin
1/2 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup
1 egg white
Small pinch salt
2-3 ounces soda
For best results, mix everything except the soda in a shaker with one ice cube and shake hard until the cube no longer rattles. Then fill the shaker with ice and shake again, hard enough to beat air into the egg. Strain through a tea strainer into a Collins glass and top with soda.
Sloe Gin Fizz
Jon Jarrell, Industrial Taphouse
It’s not the most popular drink on the menu, Jarrell says, but people who venture to try one often wind up ordering two or three more, delighting in its spiced berry tones balanced with lemon and lengthened with soda. Sloe gin’s lower ABV makes it more sessionable than its historical predecessors, which makes it a refreshing break between chores or errands.
When Industrial Taphouse was hosting its Summer of Decades series, one of Jarrell’s regulars suggested the Sloe Gin Fizz for the ’70s theme, because of the drink’s popular resurgence in the late ’60s. After some heavy (and tasty) research, he came up with this version of the classic.
2 ounces Plymouth Sloe Gin (or split 1:1 with London Dry)
1/2 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup
3-4 ounces soda
Measure everything except the soda into a shaker. Add ice and shake. Strain over fresh ice in a pint or Collins glass. Top with soda and garnish with a lemon twist.
Ramos Gin Fizz
Christian Taylor, Native Plate
One of the newest arrivals on the Richmond restaurant scene, Native Plate’s menu of pan-Asian street food pairs perfectly with its ambitious cocktail program. Christian’s background is design and illustration, and he applies that detailed eye to his mixology. For his Ramos, he adds the orange blossom water as an aromatic garnish atop the crest instead of mixing it into the drink.
2 ounces Roku gin
1/2 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce lime juice
3/4 ounce simple syrup
3/4 ounce heavy cream
3 drops orange blossom water
1 egg white
Combine ingredients in a shaker filled with ice for two to three minutes. Strain back into the shaker and shake without ice for one to two minutes. Pour into a chilled Collins glass. Pour soda steadily into the center until the meringue rises past the rim. Stand up a straw in the middle.
Paul Blumer is a writer and emeritus craft bartender.
