Organic celery from Ellwood Thompson's (Photo by Lauren Baldwin)
CELERY BASICS
Buying: Crisp, densely packed stalks with bright green leaves are the signs of a good bunch. Store whole celery in aluminum foil to keep moisture in and spoilage-inducing ethylene gas out.
Cooking: Integral to the Cajun holy trinity and to the French mirepoix, celery is the foundation for classic recipes. Slice raw on the bias and dress liberally with dressing or add to a roast or braise for subtle flavor.
DRINKING
Celery has been cultivated for medicinal uses since 850 B.C. and in the late 1800s celebrated for health benefits, even in Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Soda. Fast-forward 150 years, and we’re still sipping celery — now in cold-pressed juice.
AROUND RVA
Temple: Thai celery may not be the star of Guay Teaw Look Chin Pla, but it steals the scene, lending texture and garden flavor.
The Pit and the Peel: The powerfully veggie- and fruit-packed Toxin Terminator will have you traveling through time to kill Sarah Connor.
Kokonut Grill: Celery, cabbage and carrot provide the “meat” in this vegetarian protein option, packing a satisfying crunch in the Koko Box.
Photo by Kate Thompson courtesy Brittanny Anderson
“It’s one of my favorite ingredients, and I love it raw or cooked any time of year.” —Brittanny Anderson, co-owner/executive chef at Brenner Pass and Metzger Bar & Butchery
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Braised Celery With Guanciale and Anchovy
By Brittany Anderson, executive and co-owner of Brenner Pass and Metzger Bar & Butchery
In a culinary Destiny’s Child, celery is the Kelly Rowland, supporting the group but rarely thought of on its own. However, dishes that exalt the stalky, versatile wonder veg itself, as with Chef Brittanny Anderson’s braised celery with guanciale and anchovy, bring their own rewards.
For the Celery
1 head of celery, cut into 5-inch stalks, peeled of tough strings
1/2 cup diced guanciale
1/4 cup white wine
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 cups chicken stock
A few sprigs of thyme
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Sliced guanciale for garnish
In a pot over medium heat, saute the guanciale with a little bit of olive oil and the garlic cloves until most of the fat has rendered and the meat is starting to crisp up. Add the celery and toss around to coat in the guanciale fat and soften just a bit. Deglaze your pan with the white wine and bring down until almost fully reduced. Pour in chicken stock to cover the celery, add the thyme and bring up to a simmer. Cook until the celery is just barely tender or about 10 to 15 minutes — this can sneak up on you, so check often! Pull the celery from the liquid and put into the fridge to chill. Bring up the heat on your pan and reduce the liquid until you have about 1/8 cup. Remove from heat and use the remaining liquid to make the vinaigrette.
For the Guanciale Vinaigrette
1/8 cup celery reduction liquid
1/8 cup sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 to 3/4 cup blended oil
Salt and pepper
Blend together and season to taste.
For the Anchovy Mayonnaise
We make our own mayonnaise for this recipe, but you can feel free to use Duke's, the only real substitute for homemade.
6 oil-cured anchovy fillets (or more if you're into it)
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar or lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3/4 cup blended oil
Whisk the egg yolk with the Dijon and the vinegar, then slowly add the blended oil in a slow steady stream while whisking until the mayo has thickened and is fully emulsified. You can loosen with a bit of water if it gets too tight. Mash the anchovies into a paste and mix into the mayo, seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
To Assemble the Complete Dish
In a bowl, dress the celery with the vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper if needed. Spread a generous portion of mayo on a plate and artfully arrange the celery on top. Garnish with layered slices of the guanciale and celery leaves.
