Illustration by Lauren Baldwin
HISTORY
The aroma of toasting hazelnuts heralds holiday baking — a warm batch of muffins cooling on a rack. These kernels have been celebrated for centuries as a symbol of fertility and a source of nourishment in cultures all over the world. The lion’s share of hazelnuts hail from Turkey, which accounts for nearly 75 percent of the world’s supply.
The story of hazelnuts must include the Ferrero company, which is so entwined in the production of hazelnuts for products like Nutella, Kinder Bueno and Ferrero Rocher that it purchases 25 percent of the hazelnuts produced globally each year.
HOW TO BUY
Shelled hazelnuts are available in most grocery stores and should be used quickly to ensure freshness. In the shell, hazelnuts are a little trickier to find; however, a heavy, plump, in-shell hazelnut is a beautiful thing that’s worth a little extra effort.
HOW TO PREPARE
While hazelnuts pair perfectly with chocolate, their mildly earthy flavor also works well in savory applications. Paired with fennel and oranges and dressed with a simple vinaigrette, they can add crunch to a bright salad that holds well for holiday entertaining.
Brown Butter Banana Hazelnut Muffins
Recipe by Morgan Botwinick, owner/baker at Scoop and Whisk
Yields a dozen muffins
6 ounces unsalted butter
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 cup milk
1 1/4 cups mashed banana (about 3 bananas)
2 teaspoons molasses
2 cups hazelnuts, roughly chopped
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with muffin liners.
Melt butter in a shallow pan over medium heat. It will bubble and foam; swirl pan to evenly distribute heat. Continue to cook until small brown bits begin to form on the bottom of the pan and the butter smells nutty. Transfer browned butter to a bowl to cool. Scrape out browned bits from the pan and add back to the butter. If bits appear blackened, discard.
In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Separately, whisk together eggs, vanilla, milk, banana and molasses. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and mix on low until just barely combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Continue mixing until very little flour remains visible. With the mixer running, stream in reserved brown butter just until combined. Stop mixer and add hazelnuts. Fold in by hand.
Divide batter evenly between prepared muffin cups. Bake 18 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a rack for 15 minutes. Remove muffins from pan and allow to cool completely. Serve warm or at room temperature.
