Illustration by Lauren Baldwin
HISTORY
Harvested from the drupe — or stone fruit — of the red sumac bush, sumac is an essential spice in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean pantries that’s quickly picking up steam as a seasoning in the states. The fruits of the sumac bush are dried and crushed to create a spice that is tangy like citrus with a fruity, aromatic quality. This crimson spice imparts a cheek-puckering tartness to Palestinian mousakhan, a spiced, roasted chicken served over pita bread, and to lahmajoun, an Armenian flatbread topped with minced meat. Combined with sesame seeds and dried thyme, sumac is one of the key ingredients in the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar.
WHERE TO FIND
Sumac is available at Middle Eastern groceries, online and, increasingly, at big-box grocers. Like any dried spice, sumac should be kept in an airtight container at room temperature and used within six months.
The sumac shrub, which originally hails from Africa and North America, grows wild, and intrepid foragers know to look for its pert green leaves and bright red berries; white sumac drupes, which are not as common, are poisonous.
HOW TO PREPARE
A natural flavor enhancer, sumac adds a pleasant sourness to dishes sweet and savory. From roasted chicken to grilled fish, sumac wakes up whatever protein it graces. Adding a sprinkle of sumac makes homemade pita chips downright addictive. Simply tear leftover pita and toss with olive oil, sumac and salt before baking. Sumac can stand in easily for lemon. Imagine a creamy curd where citrus juice is replaced with sumac-infused water. Fresh sumac berries may be macerated in hot water and then juiced, strained and sweetened to create a vibrant drink served over ice.
Spinach Pies
By May Elkassis, Natalie’s Taste of Lebanon
1 12-inch pie dough
1 pound spinach, washed, stems removed
1/4 cup minced onion
1/2 cup diced tomato
2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon sumac
1 egg, mixed with 1 tablespoon of water to make an egg wash
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and position rack in the center of the oven.
Allow your pie dough to reach room temperature while you mix the filling. In a bowl combine the ingredients thoroughly. Use a 4-inch biscuit cutter to cut rounds from your dough. Scoop about 2 tablespoons of filling on each round.
Brush egg wash along the edges, and crimp to close. Place pies on a parchment-lined baking sheet, and brush with egg wash. Sprinkle lightly with sumac, and bake for approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Allow to cool for a few minutes before serving.
