Illustration by Lauren Baldwin
HISTORY
Long, toothy and intimidating, the Northern Snakehead surely isn’t going to win any beauty contests. But what the fish, often likened to an eel with piranha-like teeth, lacks in looks, it makes up for in abundance. Likely introduced by accident in the early 2000s, the snakehead proliferated in the tributaries of the Chesapeake Bay and quickly established dominance, feasting on smaller fish and lacking a natural predator. That is, unless you count humans. Now, conscientious eaters are tasked with saving the Bay from these overabundant creatures by doing something that comes naturally — eating them.
WHAT TO BUY
With a name like snakehead, the average consumer isn’t racing to the fishmonger to buy fillets of the invasive species, and even so, you’ll be hard-pressed to find snakehead at your average seafood store. Instead, the easiest way to find the fish may be to catch it yourself.
Fishing for snakehead is no easy task — they’re slippery, strong and don’t leave the water without a fight — but can be worth the effort. Potomac fishermen recommend nocturnal bow fishing, rather than rod and reel fishing. The Northern Snakehead slithers in creeks and can usually be found lurking among hydrilla and lilies. Virginia law requires that any snakehead removed from the water be reported and killed immediately.
Virginia chefs with a knack for sustainability have taken a shine to snakehead, and it’s making its way onto menus.
HOW TO PREPARE
The white, meaty snakehead flesh is mild, almost bland. The fish is a blank canvas for a variety of applications, from frying to grilling, and suitable to eat in crudo or ceviche with plenty of citrus. If you’re trying snakehead for the first time, treat it like grouper, and fry it for fish and chips or tacos — a gateway preparation to get you on Team Snakehead. Southbound Chef Craig Perkinson recommends a sous-vide preparation or poaching the fish in white wine and butter.
Butter-Poached Snakehead
By Craig Perkinson, Southbound
1 pound snakehead fillet
3 cloves of garlic
Lemon thyme
Black peppercorn
Salt to taste
1 pound butter if poaching
(1/4 pound butter for sous-vide)
Melt the butter in a pot large enough to submerge one, ideally two, fish fillets. When butter starts to melt add garlic, lemon thyme, black peppercorn. Bring butter to between 150°F and 170°F. Pat the pieces of fish dry and place in butter for 30 minutes. (Sous-vide fillet at 50°C for 30 minutes and then shock in ice bath.)
Remove fillet from butter and place on resting rack. Serve with desired sides, such as a cauliflower puree, roasted potato, wax beans, smoked whey or a salad.
